Bigger’s not always better for gift cookbooks

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| Wednesday, December 13, 2006 1:16 AM CST | () comments

The Washington Post

Online recipes can vanish in the blink of a systems crash; cookbooks have staying power. Of course, some of those published in 2006 deserve more shelf space than others. To that end, we offer a quick guide to our favorites among the year’s titles. We limited our picks to recipe collections and tried to reach beyond the crop of big-gift-book and celebrity vehicles that arrive each fall.

Aliza Green’s “Starting With Ingredients,” in particular, sent us running to the test kitchen. And here’s something we’d like to see more of: the spill-proof, cleanable pages of “Charlie Palmer’s Practical Guide to the New American Kitchen” (Melcher Media, 205 pages, $35). When the cookbook industry switches to that standard, we will definitely build more bookshelves.

Must-haves

“Baking: From My Home to Yours” by Dorie Greenspan, Houghton Mifflin, $40

Wow. Recipes read like easy lessons, and the book is so handsome. Its “Dessert Maker’s Glossary” answers questions even experienced bakers didn’t know they needed to ask.

“Best of the Best” by the editors of Food & Wine, American Express, $29.95

A particularly successful, easy-to-read collection, featuring previously unpublished recipes from chefs and cookbook authors we admire.

“Kitchen Sense” by Mitchell Davis, Clarkson Potter, $35

Another book that lives up to its title. Jargon has been deleted from the recipes, which include handy directives for advance prep and leftovers.

“The Improvisational Cook” by Sally Schneider, William Morrow, $34.95

Delivers what the title promises. Practical strategies, keen guide to flavor affinities and kitchen equipment, interesting recipes with lots of variations.

“Starting With Ingredients,” by Aliza Green, Running Press, $39.95

Akin to a Google recipe search, only authoritative, reliable — and with context. Organized by ingredients, with hundreds of tips and recipes, plus a killer index.

Big, bold encyclopedic

“The America’s Test Kitchen” Family Cookbook, Revised Edition, America’s Test Kitchen $34.95

Utilitarian, as you’d expect, in its five-ring binder format.

“The Big Book of Outdoor Cooking & Entertaining” by Cheryl and Bill Jamison, William Morrow $24.95

The year’s most comprehensive collection on this topic, and a personable read to boot.

“Bon Appetit” by Barbara Fairchild, Wiley, $34.95

A liberating tome for fans of Bon Appetit magazine (toss those back issues).

“Happy in the Kitchen,” by Michel Richard with Susie Heller and Peter Kaminsky, Artisan, $45

A celebration of a true master chef, plus stunningly beautiful food.

“The Joy of Cooking, 75th Anniversary Edition” by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker and Ethan Becker, Scribner, $30

Classic recipes returned and new ones.

Under the radar

“The Ethical Gourmet” by Jay Weinstein, Broadway Books, $18.95

A primer that is not preachy, with recipes that promote mindful eating whether it’s at home or in a restaurant.

“The Farmstead Egg Cookbook” by Terry Golson, St. Martin’s Press, $16.95

Pint-size, with an artisanal quality. Includes (a boon!) 1- and 2-serving recipes.

“Instant Entertaining” by Donna Hay, Ecco, $34.95

Fresh takes, unfussy sensibilities for great and small occasions.

“The Murray’s Cheese Handbook” by Rob Kaufelt, Broadway Books, $12.95

Built small enough to be taken on shopping trips, with just the right amount of detail.

“Stonewall Kitchen Favorites” by Jonathan King, Jim Stott and Kathy Gunst, Crown, $32.50

A non-challenging group of bright American recipes with melting-pot tendencies.

“175 Essential Slow Cooker Classics” by Judith Finlayson, Robert Rose Books, $24.95

There’s real variety in this collection.